The Fall 2016 menswear collection for Saint Laurent, presented in the iconic Palladium concert hall on Sunset Boulevard, marked a poignant and dramatic finale to Hedi Slimane's tenure at the house. More than just a fashion show, it was a spectacle, a summation of his highly controversial yet undeniably influential vision, a last hurrah before his departure that sent shockwaves through the industry. This article will delve into the nuances of the collection itself, analyzing the runway looks, the beauty aesthetic, the model casting, and the critical reception, all while considering its place within the larger context of Slimane's legacy at Saint Laurent and beyond.
The setting itself – the Palladium – was telling. Slimane, known for his meticulous attention to detail and his creation of carefully curated worlds, chose a venue steeped in rock 'n' roll history, a space that perfectly mirrored the collection's rebellious spirit and its romantic, almost melancholic undertones. The atmosphere was electric, a fitting prelude to a show that would be both celebrated and condemned in equal measure.
The Runway Looks: A Symphony of Slimane's Signature Style
The Saint Laurent Fall 2016 menswear collection was a distillation of Slimane's signature aesthetic: lean silhouettes, sharp tailoring, a relentless focus on youth culture, and a pervasive sense of romantic darkness. The collection showcased his mastery of the skinny silhouette, with impossibly narrow trousers, fitted jackets, and exquisitely crafted coats dominating the runway. These weren't merely clothes; they were meticulously constructed statements, each piece a testament to Slimane's unwavering commitment to a specific, highly refined vision.
The palette was largely monochromatic, punctuated by bursts of deep blues, blacks, and occasional pops of color. Leather, a recurring motif throughout Slimane's tenure at Saint Laurent, played a significant role, appearing in jackets, trousers, and accessories. The collection featured an array of textures, from the softest suede to the most rigid leather, creating a dynamic interplay of materials. There were hints of Western influences, particularly in the use of fringe detailing and the inclusion of cowboy boots, subtly integrated into the overall aesthetic without ever compromising its inherent sleekness.
The outerwear was particularly noteworthy. Long, elegant coats, perfectly tailored to accentuate the slim physiques of the models, were a recurring theme. These coats, often in luxurious fabrics like cashmere or wool, exuded an air of both sophistication and rebellious nonchalance. The collection also featured an array of jackets, ranging from classic biker jackets to more structured, tailored pieces, each meticulously crafted and perfectly proportioned.
Beauty and the Model Casting: A Study in Youthful Rebellion
Slimane's casting choices have always been a significant talking point, and the Fall 2016 show was no exception. The models, predominantly young and lean, embodied a specific ideal of youthful rebellion, a key element of Slimane's overall aesthetic. This carefully curated cast further reinforced the collection's narrative, projecting an image of effortless cool and a certain kind of brooding intensity.
The beauty look complemented the clothing perfectly. The hair was typically Slimane – dark, often swept back, and styled with a deliberate sense of undone elegance. The makeup was minimal, focusing on a natural, almost androgynous look that further emphasized the models' youthful features. This understated beauty approach allowed the clothing to speak for itself, highlighting the meticulous tailoring and the exquisite fabrics.
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